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Will the Mustang guys give their thermostat information?
Are you running one, if so what temp t-stat.
Water temps and oil temps at full temperature?
Me, 180 t-stat, running 215 water and 280 oil during race. (W/ big ass radiator and big ass oil cooler)
BTW, I am thinking about running with no t-stat this weekend. Suggestions?
I ran a 180 with water temps around 225-230 on track... I switched to a 190 and now the temps are around 210-215 on track.
Depending on the car setup, if you run without a stat you might run hotter as the water will not stay in the radiator long enough to cool, causing it to run hotter.
Runing a cooler stat is not always the answer. Keeping the water in the radiator long enough to cool it down and then cycle out is the key... to long in the radiator and the engine gets too hot, causing a hot cold situation... running a 160 will cause it to stay open and not cool enough and it cycles to fast...
I found the 190 to be suited well for my car. I have run the 180, 190, 195, and 205 in my car.
DD
Since your car is EFI I would run a tstat because you need it in closed loop. As you it does not matter what temp stat you have is it cannot get that low anyway. You need as much water flow as you can get. This style stat flow more than the regualar style. Though 215 is not that bad. Many new cars run that hot everyday.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...¤tPage=0
David, if you have a water temp of 200, wouldn't both a 180 and 190 stat be full open? Here is some tech I found.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
http://forums.corner-carvers.com/sho...ater+pump+flow
In theory... Yes, they both would both be open...
I played around with it on separate weekends, and the ambient temps were different, it was not the best case study...
When I looked into it back in 2005 it was explained that the cooling capacity of the radiator should be matched with the temp and thermostat cycle.
Being that if the radiator could only cool down to X degrees, and the cycle of the temp/stat was X degrees, there is a relationship between the two that need to be matched.
So, if my setup would not produce X degrees of desired temps, then switch the stats and see if that helps. If the desired temps are not reached with that cycle of the stat, then get a larger radiator because the engine is going to produce the same heat not matter what.
Now, if the stat is open steady... say like during a 20 minute session on track... then its all just getting the water to flow and cool...
Not sure if I am explaining it correctly or if it’s clear. The main key was that if the water was not in the radiator for X amount of time to cool it, the engine temp/stat would open and high temps would result.
I realize that this theory is mainly directed for street use, as our sessions may not cycle like this.
I’m really not this smart, I’m fairly dumb when it comes to all this… I just read a lot! So, if I'm way off here please help!
DD 8)
But if the water is not spending enough time in the rad it IS spending too much time in the engine. Sounds like either a water flow (too little) or and air flow (too little) issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by donovan
With my limited understanding, Agreed!
I appriciate you chiming in and adding some Tech here!
Much to learn here.
DD
Good thread on cc.com
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...+heat+transfer
Interthread Klink...Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall_mosty
Quote:
Originally Posted by BSharp
I read thru some of those links, good stuff...
Something I left off... I run the Edelbrock water pump and a Fluiddyne 24# radiator cap with a fluiddyne radiator.
DD
215 and 280 are not that big of a problem. i'm 200-220 and 290 most all the time.
Don't ask/listen to a Chevy guy!
He might be pulling your chain.
I ran no thermostat and had the same symptoms.
Now it never goes above 190F with this 13 dollar part.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
jb
I agree but I think he can get it cooler. Last month at Hallett I was 215-220 and 280-290 with an Edlebrock w/p, high flow 180 stat, hood vents, and Ron Davis rad AND a fully functional a/c system. I am going to take off the u/d pulleys to get the w/p speed up before the next track event I go to.Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
I am in a mustang but different motor combo... water 185, oil in the 240's, no cooler. running a 185 stat and considering a 165 if I can find one.
I have ducted the radiator so that ANY air that comes through the grill MUST go through the radiator and it lowered temps from 205 down to the current 185. Don't know what is legal in CMC but if you can keep the air from spilling around or under the radiator, you will be fine.
Also, if you dare chance it, you can run a radiator similar to mine which is a dual pass style. The water goes through the top half, then back through the bottom half before it gets to the engine. Sees cooling air twice before it goes back into the motor. They aren't cheap but I am going 4 events on oil because it never gets that hot. The car actually gets hotter sitting on grid at idle than it does on track in traffic. While I know these radiators aren't cheap, I got mine used from John for like $300 which included some hoses to make it work. Dropped right in!!!
I know spending more money isn't what you wanted to hear but given that a cooler and more lines are another point of failure, which you are familiar with, it might be a better solution.
Matt, I used to have block off panels to direct air through the radiator when I had the narrower radiator last year. After the Hallett incident I had to get a new radiator and went with the 31" from Griffin. The water temps have been alot better this year (last year was 240-250 water) but I would like to get them a little lower.
I am eventually going to box in the radiator again to help force the air through the radiator. I am shooting for the 200-210 range.
Last question, how often should I change radiator caps? I have been running the same one for about 2 years (the one from the Volvo diesel, I think 24 lbs.).
I made my blockoffs out of foam. No need to get it exact to fit. It will compress to fit.
you needto spend time and box that rad. its well worth your time.
i got my 24# cap at Smileys. $10
Michael,
I have a spare 24# cap in my pit box for ya.
i also have a set of those restrictor washers that go in place of the T-stat. they will not work on an LT1, so i cant use them.
And I would say if done smartly combined with closing up the rest of the openings and smoothing out the nose with duct tape, you would probably realize some downforce by getting the air OVER the car instead of under or around it!Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
you can get a high pressure cap at your local Oreillys.
Just have them look through there catalog. I think I have a 22lb unit now.
Michael, as we have talked before, we have alwyas run at 200-210 and 230-235, same rad that you have. You gotta step up and get the $500 oil cooler from MM (Mocal).
Just my overseas $.02