Did the pistons leave the holes?
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Did the pistons leave the holes?
I was actually thinking of running without bearings to increase my oil capacity and reduce the friction and parasitic loss in the oil pump. It would also save some weight in the engine to run without bearings.
I usually just skip all that mess and leave the oil pump off. It's just parasitic to keep spinning the oil pump pushing all of that high viscosity fluid. No oil and no oil pump means a lot of parasitic drag and weight lost!
Just run 0W5 motor oil.
I used to run 20-50 in most if not all of my cars but the Mod motor experts say you can't get away with it (that most of your oil will be in the valve covers.). Sean Hyland says they made a set of clear Lexan valve covers for a 4.6 two valve and with the four valve higher volume oil pump the valve covers were completely full of oil at higher RPM's. He says to run the higher volume oil pump you have to drill the return holes in the head out larger. Most of those guys run 0W20 or 5W20. I can't make myself run it so I run 10W30 and hope I'm okay. I have seen and heard Matt Fucking White start a cold 4.6 and rap it to 8 grand in ten seconds after starting. I assume he was running very thin oil.
I will be on 30W oil this weekend and then 15W/50 for COTA.
I do straight 40W Valvoline right now. Have done 5w40 and 0w40 in the past. I really need to do some homework on the VR1 I run now. It claims to have higher zinc and considers itself a racing oil. What oil temps are you guys seeing? When my coolant goes up, my oil huts 300+.
I have always ran purple 5-20 and 5-30 in my 4.6. I used to run VR1 40w in the miata. All good oil. I stay away from mobil one 5-30 cause it practically turns to water when hot.
I wanted to run RP but thought the whole thing (purple oil) could be Hype. Most of the RP sold in auto parts stores is NOT racing oil but street oil. I agree on the Mobil One looking like water when hot but I ran it for awhile. I run the VR1 10W30 in the race car. The extra zinc is supposed to be good for flat tappet cam engines (I don't have a flat tappet cam but any extra protection can't hurt). If I can't find the VR1 I run Valvoline syn. 10-30 with a bottle of DSS Racing additive. http://shop.dssracing.com/product_p/op100%20single.htm
JJ
I think the zinc is still good for rockers that don't have roller tips too. I believe the M1 is a group 3 or 3/4 base stock whereas the RP is a group 4 base stock. I know M1 runs on the thin side because I have researched that one. Their high mileage oil has a smidge more zinc in it, but not enough to be a racing oil. RP isn't a racing oil either, but it is supposed to be better than M1. I think when people think of a racing synthetic they think of a group 5 base stock oil. Those are what initially debuted as a synthetic oil and are the ones you have to open your wallet for the most.
I used to use mobil1 15w50 because it had 1200ppm of zinc and you can get it at walmart but would change it every 3-4 days of track time; Leinart turned me on to running a better oil for longer which would cost the same but maybe give me more protection being a higher base stock with even more zinc.
Given that I expect my LS1 to have higher oil temps and more likely to scorch/break down oil than the LT1, I'll be trying a "better" oil this year. The LT1 would hit a peak for 275-280* and I'm assuming I will go higher at Hallet this year, but am working on oil cooler ducting to try stop that. However, LS1 has been producing a lot cleaner oil filters than all of my previous LT1s so I feel more comfortable running longer on a better oil on this setup.
I'm still conflicted from when I made this chart, as I'm not seeing where m1 15w50 "turns to water" compared to the others in basic tests/measures, but they don't account for how oil breaks down after running at high temps for too long.
Mobil1 Redline Amsoil Motul
Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 18 19.6 18 18
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 125 138 126.3 122.9
Viscosity Index 160 162 158 164
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC 4.5 5.8 5.3
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -39 -45 -38 -39
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 232 238 238
TBN 8 8.25
The more I researched about oil on the interwebs, the more I arrived to two conclusions: A. there's a ton of misinformation and anecdotal "evidence" out there and B. Just run oil in the correct weight and leverage used oil analysis kits to decide what is working for you.
I'm going to try Amsoil with 2 oil changes per season, but will send off a sample and adjust change intervals accordingly. I had a PC membership from a bunch of Toyota diff/atf flushes I did a while back, so I just stocked up on their Dominator 15w50 racing oil for the LS1 along with their diff fluid, to where it came out to be pretty competitive to store bought synthetic diff fluid and running mobil1 more frequent changes, so I figure it wouldn't hurt to try.
Make sure you are aware of your garage spot before unloading:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...Wd1WcQ/pubhtml
I'm surrounded by Camaros!
Kyri was going to DE the street car but it developed an issue with the clutch and the dealership wont have it ready in time. The race car has developed a peculiar case of silence probably due to all the wires not connected to anything.
Anyway we are still coming and will figure out something to bring.
enough of ya'll told me to join this site this weekend that I did.
If any of ya'll have the pace car doing a burnout on video or photos, I'd appreciate if you'd let me know on here or on my phone (five 1 five, 9 nine one, two 1 3 seven)
Also, thanks for cooking and eating the brisket I brought on Saturday. Glad I can help feed ya'll.
I guess I deserved that one...
Thank you all for a great weekend! I hope you all had a great time! This group is the epitome of camaraderie and I love that! Next stop; COTA!!!
Race 1
https://youtu.be/1iwT5I5Q42w
I had spoken to the driver in question after I had a similar, longer lasting issue in one of my races (I think R1?). Super nice guy and he's trying to get up to speed in a new car/environment; he did a lot better after getting through the first race or two. Also had an issue with another AI driver that parked it in front of me in T13/14 then blew me away on the front straight.
I took Will's advice and approached these drivers directly, and it worked well. I'm not at all bothered about it at this point, as I am still learning how to be more assertive and execute passes on slower in-class cars, which would help if I'm ever stuck behind another new "blocking" out of class car in the future.
We probably need to do a better job as a group on educating newcomers about out of class racing and watching mirrors, as this issue comes up every time we have a (much needed) group of new guys come into AI to race with us, but overall this weekend was a lot better than Cresson.
I offered to give the position back to Jander after the race. I have been thinking a lot about it since, what do you guys think about these situations? I've been burned many times by lap traffic and I just have to deal with it, seems like thats how racing goes.
Except that's the rule and everybody's in the same class.Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1
Here's how I see it, in the rosy unrealistic world of good sportsmanship. Had the car involved been another in-class car, we could all go "discuss" with them situational awareness that they were impeding the leaders of a race. Now, had there been two cars, in the same class racing each other - all bets are off if you want to overtake them.
Part of me thinks "que sera sera" and it's just part of racing.
The other part says, "that car is better this race and is getting hosed" and maybe just bump drafted him across the line.