215 and 280 are not that big of a problem. i'm 200-220 and 290 most all the time.
Printable View
215 and 280 are not that big of a problem. i'm 200-220 and 290 most all the time.
Don't ask/listen to a Chevy guy!
He might be pulling your chain.
I ran no thermostat and had the same symptoms.
Now it never goes above 190F with this 13 dollar part.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
jb
I agree but I think he can get it cooler. Last month at Hallett I was 215-220 and 280-290 with an Edlebrock w/p, high flow 180 stat, hood vents, and Ron Davis rad AND a fully functional a/c system. I am going to take off the u/d pulleys to get the w/p speed up before the next track event I go to.Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70
I am in a mustang but different motor combo... water 185, oil in the 240's, no cooler. running a 185 stat and considering a 165 if I can find one.
I have ducted the radiator so that ANY air that comes through the grill MUST go through the radiator and it lowered temps from 205 down to the current 185. Don't know what is legal in CMC but if you can keep the air from spilling around or under the radiator, you will be fine.
Also, if you dare chance it, you can run a radiator similar to mine which is a dual pass style. The water goes through the top half, then back through the bottom half before it gets to the engine. Sees cooling air twice before it goes back into the motor. They aren't cheap but I am going 4 events on oil because it never gets that hot. The car actually gets hotter sitting on grid at idle than it does on track in traffic. While I know these radiators aren't cheap, I got mine used from John for like $300 which included some hoses to make it work. Dropped right in!!!
I know spending more money isn't what you wanted to hear but given that a cooler and more lines are another point of failure, which you are familiar with, it might be a better solution.
Matt, I used to have block off panels to direct air through the radiator when I had the narrower radiator last year. After the Hallett incident I had to get a new radiator and went with the 31" from Griffin. The water temps have been alot better this year (last year was 240-250 water) but I would like to get them a little lower.
I am eventually going to box in the radiator again to help force the air through the radiator. I am shooting for the 200-210 range.
Last question, how often should I change radiator caps? I have been running the same one for about 2 years (the one from the Volvo diesel, I think 24 lbs.).
I made my blockoffs out of foam. No need to get it exact to fit. It will compress to fit.
you needto spend time and box that rad. its well worth your time.
i got my 24# cap at Smileys. $10
Michael,
I have a spare 24# cap in my pit box for ya.
i also have a set of those restrictor washers that go in place of the T-stat. they will not work on an LT1, so i cant use them.
And I would say if done smartly combined with closing up the rest of the openings and smoothing out the nose with duct tape, you would probably realize some downforce by getting the air OVER the car instead of under or around it!Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCMC70