does it rotate so you can wind/unwind the hose easily?
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does it rotate so you can wind/unwind the hose easily?
No, I thought about it, but didn't want it to snowball. Figured I could use a 4th gen hub, but then I'd probably want to use a 4th gen 16x8 wheel for the correct backspacing, but since I'd be using a 4th gen wheel, may as well step up to a 17x9.5, and since I'd now have 17's, there's no reason not to get a big 13" brake kit with 4 pots... just too much money for me.
haha nice response!
the rotating thing was what always stopped me from doing this with my own extra wheels and such - couldn't come up with a cheap/easy way to do it and was hoping someone had an idea I could steal :)
I really did think about using a worn out 4th gen spindle, even throwing on a worn LS1 rotor I have (and figure a way to mount a busted caliper on it), but then the weight started to really add up. The actual hurdle for making it spin was how do you keep it from unwinding on the compressor side when you roll it up. Only thing I came up with was you'd have to do some sort of short hose from the compressor to the center of the mount, with some sort of 90* swivel end.
Modify one of these...http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...lt?q=hose+reel
there goes Rob Hu being practical again... maybe Rob can build you one, he's not building anything else.
I don't think the car wants to go to Nationals...
</p>I was going to swap the bellhousing too but couldn't get the 'middle' driver's side bolt out and broke a 3/8" swivel in the process. Then, I get the crossmember on and can't find the stupid trans mount bolt.</p></p>I'll get it all bolted up, have 6 reverse gears, blow up the clutch putting it on the trailer, get two flats on the trailer and one on the truck, cord some RA1s, crack the left rear rotor, make 372/368 on the dyno, and lose the race car keys (AGAIN) in the process.</p></p>Is it too early for a beer?</p>